Super Train, Super Change: Varanasi to Kerala

We've just arrived today into Kochi, Kerala in nearly the very south of India. I think that the southernmost point of India is in this state, so we're pretty far down there. I haven't written about it much, but we were last in Varanasi in pretty much the very north east of the country. So... Long story short, we just rode a train for 54 hours to get here! We slept 3 nights on the train, leaving Varanasi around 1 AM on the 21st and arrived this morning at about 7 AM (7 and a half hours late). Luckily our compartment had AC and we opted for the nicer 2-bunk seating instead of 3 which can be a little more crowded, or at least it was when we rode non-AC sleeper. The people were much friendlier too. I'll just say that it was an experience, and I'm a bit tired of the curry and chapati that I ate lunch and dinner for the past 2 days. Also... It wasn't smart to walk around Varanasi all day in 110 degree heat and then not have the option to shower before boarding. Oh well!

Kochi here really is a contrast from what I've seen in the rest of India. The streets are relatively clean, nearly every one can read, a lot of people are Christians (not that that is better), the health care is miles ahead of the rest of the country and overall wealth of the population is comparable to the US (in India terms, not real $ comparison) according to some things I've read. And, well, the government is an elected communist government. Our hotelier claims that you still must contribute to the party's programs if you want to get anything done but that seems to be much preferable to the outright bribes you have to give in the rest of India (which go straight to the officials' pockets). I'm really surprised at the corruption in the country... Anyways, Kerala is a fine place, really beautiful, doing relatively well, and it's all really interesting conversation with the locals. There's even an economic model (Kerala model) named after the advancement/development here which has happened really without industrialization.

We've explored the city here a bit today, and we're planning a backwater boat ride tomorrow and then perhaps a motorcycle trip up the coast a bit to a beach (if I can find a reasonable bike to ride). Who knows what after that... We'd like to head to Munnar in a few days and after to Varkala, both in Kerala. I'd like to see Mysore as well, but we also want to spend a couple days in Mumbai before our flight on the 8th to South Africa.

Varanasi was really an interesting, hot, and sometimes frustrating place. It is the low season around most of the country now, and Varanasi has a reputation for really giving travelers a tough time with touts, begging, and all other kinds of annoyances. It really did not disappoint. The burning ghats were really astounding though only if you could manage more than 3 minutes of quiet to soak in the scene. Many, many people come to the city for the cremation which is supposed to release the souls body straight to Nirvana rather than risking another rebirth. There are constantly burnings happening, throughout the day and night, so it is impossible to miss them. Women are not allowed to attend because they believe crying (which is attributed only to women) will trap the bodies soul in this world rather than releasing it. Emilie noticed a man break down crying and his friends rushed him away as quickly as possible...

Unfortunately, there are "guides" that want to tell you all about it all (and are amazingly persistent) and end up either asking for money on false pretenses (like it will go to buy wood for poor families) or really trying hard to get you into their shop. Furthermore there are boat men that want to take you out on the river... Masseuses that act like they just want to shake your hand and talk but then won't let go... And a host of other annoyances that make the city very tough to deal with and truly appreciate. Very sad, it's an amazing place and some of those things I would definitely do were it not for the desire to discourage the touts. Yet you have to feel guilty as well because you can afford to spare the rupees and their situation can be desparate. The people don't hesistate to exploit that feeling either; it can get really disheartening at times. We're planning to look into NGOs or charities rather than giving out on the street. Hopefully a larger donation to a good organization will go further and help more people, especially some of the really sweet children that we met.

Overall, it's relieving to be here in Kerala though I wish I could have had more appreciation of the beauty of Varanasi without the distractions. I haven't posted pictures at all recently as the internet is pretty slow. I'll get around to it soon, promise.